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3

$begingroup$

I have purchased an LED flasher circuit from Ebay (see jpg) for use on a model plane, but the flash rate on the circuit is much too fast, about 4 flashes a second. I am trying to achieve 1 or 2 flashes a second. What component would I need to change to reduce the flash rate? I have listed the components in the PDF and have drawn out the circuit, so I hope that helps. Many thanks

led led-driver

share|improve this question

asked 11 hours ago

FerryMan69FerryMan69

161

New contributor

FerryMan69 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

$endgroup$

add a comment | 

3

$begingroup$

I have purchased an LED flasher circuit from Ebay (see jpg) for use on a model plane, but the flash rate on the circuit is much too fast, about 4 flashes a second. I am trying to achieve 1 or 2 flashes a second. What component would I need to change to reduce the flash rate? I have listed the components in the PDF and have drawn out the circuit, so I hope that helps. Many thanks

led led-driver

share|improve this question

asked 11 hours ago

FerryMan69FerryMan69

161

New contributor

FerryMan69 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

$endgroup$

add a comment | 

$begingroup$

I have purchased an LED flasher circuit from Ebay (see jpg) for use on a model plane, but the flash rate on the circuit is much too fast, about 4 flashes a second. I am trying to achieve 1 or 2 flashes a second. What component would I need to change to reduce the flash rate? I have listed the components in the PDF and have drawn out the circuit, so I hope that helps. Many thanks

led led-driver

share|improve this question

asked 11 hours ago

FerryMan69FerryMan69

161

New contributor

FerryMan69 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

$endgroup$

share|improve this question

asked 11 hours ago

FerryMan69FerryMan69

161

New contributor

FerryMan69 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

share|improve this question

asked 11 hours ago

FerryMan69FerryMan69

161

New contributor

FerryMan69 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

asked 11 hours ago

FerryMan69FerryMan69

161

New contributor

FerryMan69 is a new contributor to this site. Take care in asking for clarification, commenting, and answering.
Check out our Code of Conduct.

asked 11 hours ago

FerryMan69FerryMan69

161

2 Answers
2

active

oldest

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6

$begingroup$

The fact that there's multiple operating modes indicates that HH5K1 is not in fact a simple device, but most probably a cheap microcontroller¹ or dedicated ASIC that does the blinking.
I'm afraid that means you can't swap anything to do what you want.

So, build a flasher from scratch that does what you want. I rarely do that, but here, using a NE555 might be the simplest thing to do; there's plenty of online circuit example that you can refer to, but frankly, the application examples in the datasheet(s) do contain astable multivibrators. Add a smallish capacitor and an BJT to the output – and tadah!, you've got a flasher.

Another option is going the same route as the manufacturer of the board you're looking at: Get some logic to do your work; a 0.30€ attiny would absolutely do the job.

---

¹ The 51 in the name might hint it's a 8051 core clone, but that's not going to help anyone – that thing, if programmable, is very likely only programmable once.

share|improve this answer

edited 11 hours ago

answered 11 hours ago

Marcus MüllerMarcus Müller

35.6k363101

$endgroup$

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  Thank you, Marcus for your super fast reply. I appreciate your help.
  $endgroup$
  – FerryMan69
  11 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  Thanks for the kind words – I'd accept an upvote, then!
  $endgroup$
  – Marcus Müller
  11 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  Its the least I can do. Up voted.
  $endgroup$
  – FerryMan69
  11 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

4

$begingroup$

FWIW, here's the schematic:

^{simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab}

You could desolder the HH5K1 and put a PIC10F200 in its place (after programming it, of course).

• Pin 2 would connect to BAT-


• Pin 6 would connect to BAT+


• Pin 4 would connect to R2 and the MOSFETs

You'd just need to add a wire between pins 5 (Vdd) and 6 to power the chip.

share|improve this answer

answered 10 hours ago

Dave Tweed♦Dave Tweed

126k10155269

$endgroup$

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  Thank you Dave. That sounds like a good suggestion. I have never tried programming PIC's so it all a bit new to me. I will have to investigate this option.
  $endgroup$
  – FerryMan69
  9 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  If you want to learn to program PICs, this is a great first project. If you don't it will seem like a lot of fuss.
  $endgroup$
  – Dannie
  2 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

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6

$begingroup$

The fact that there's multiple operating modes indicates that HH5K1 is not in fact a simple device, but most probably a cheap microcontroller¹ or dedicated ASIC that does the blinking.
I'm afraid that means you can't swap anything to do what you want.

So, build a flasher from scratch that does what you want. I rarely do that, but here, using a NE555 might be the simplest thing to do; there's plenty of online circuit example that you can refer to, but frankly, the application examples in the datasheet(s) do contain astable multivibrators. Add a smallish capacitor and an BJT to the output – and tadah!, you've got a flasher.

Another option is going the same route as the manufacturer of the board you're looking at: Get some logic to do your work; a 0.30€ attiny would absolutely do the job.

---

¹ The 51 in the name might hint it's a 8051 core clone, but that's not going to help anyone – that thing, if programmable, is very likely only programmable once.

share|improve this answer

edited 11 hours ago

answered 11 hours ago

Marcus MüllerMarcus Müller

35.6k363101

$endgroup$

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  Thank you, Marcus for your super fast reply. I appreciate your help.
  $endgroup$
  – FerryMan69
  11 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  Thanks for the kind words – I'd accept an upvote, then!
  $endgroup$
  – Marcus Müller
  11 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  Its the least I can do. Up voted.
  $endgroup$
  – FerryMan69
  11 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

6

$begingroup$

The fact that there's multiple operating modes indicates that HH5K1 is not in fact a simple device, but most probably a cheap microcontroller¹ or dedicated ASIC that does the blinking.
I'm afraid that means you can't swap anything to do what you want.

So, build a flasher from scratch that does what you want. I rarely do that, but here, using a NE555 might be the simplest thing to do; there's plenty of online circuit example that you can refer to, but frankly, the application examples in the datasheet(s) do contain astable multivibrators. Add a smallish capacitor and an BJT to the output – and tadah!, you've got a flasher.

Another option is going the same route as the manufacturer of the board you're looking at: Get some logic to do your work; a 0.30€ attiny would absolutely do the job.

---

¹ The 51 in the name might hint it's a 8051 core clone, but that's not going to help anyone – that thing, if programmable, is very likely only programmable once.

share|improve this answer

edited 11 hours ago

answered 11 hours ago

Marcus MüllerMarcus Müller

35.6k363101

$endgroup$

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  Thank you, Marcus for your super fast reply. I appreciate your help.
  $endgroup$
  – FerryMan69
  11 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  Thanks for the kind words – I'd accept an upvote, then!
  $endgroup$
  – Marcus Müller
  11 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  Its the least I can do. Up voted.
  $endgroup$
  – FerryMan69
  11 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

$begingroup$

The fact that there's multiple operating modes indicates that HH5K1 is not in fact a simple device, but most probably a cheap microcontroller¹ or dedicated ASIC that does the blinking.
I'm afraid that means you can't swap anything to do what you want.

So, build a flasher from scratch that does what you want. I rarely do that, but here, using a NE555 might be the simplest thing to do; there's plenty of online circuit example that you can refer to, but frankly, the application examples in the datasheet(s) do contain astable multivibrators. Add a smallish capacitor and an BJT to the output – and tadah!, you've got a flasher.

Another option is going the same route as the manufacturer of the board you're looking at: Get some logic to do your work; a 0.30€ attiny would absolutely do the job.

---

¹ The 51 in the name might hint it's a 8051 core clone, but that's not going to help anyone – that thing, if programmable, is very likely only programmable once.

share|improve this answer

edited 11 hours ago

answered 11 hours ago

Marcus MüllerMarcus Müller

35.6k363101

$endgroup$

share|improve this answer

edited 11 hours ago

answered 11 hours ago

Marcus MüllerMarcus Müller

35.6k363101

answered 11 hours ago

Marcus MüllerMarcus Müller

35.6k363101

answered 11 hours ago

Marcus MüllerMarcus Müller

35.6k363101

4

$begingroup$

FWIW, here's the schematic:

^{simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab}

You could desolder the HH5K1 and put a PIC10F200 in its place (after programming it, of course).

• Pin 2 would connect to BAT-


• Pin 6 would connect to BAT+


• Pin 4 would connect to R2 and the MOSFETs

You'd just need to add a wire between pins 5 (Vdd) and 6 to power the chip.

share|improve this answer

answered 10 hours ago

Dave Tweed♦Dave Tweed

126k10155269

$endgroup$

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  Thank you Dave. That sounds like a good suggestion. I have never tried programming PIC's so it all a bit new to me. I will have to investigate this option.
  $endgroup$
  – FerryMan69
  9 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  If you want to learn to program PICs, this is a great first project. If you don't it will seem like a lot of fuss.
  $endgroup$
  – Dannie
  2 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

4

$begingroup$

FWIW, here's the schematic:

^{simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab}

You could desolder the HH5K1 and put a PIC10F200 in its place (after programming it, of course).

• Pin 2 would connect to BAT-


• Pin 6 would connect to BAT+


• Pin 4 would connect to R2 and the MOSFETs

You'd just need to add a wire between pins 5 (Vdd) and 6 to power the chip.

share|improve this answer

answered 10 hours ago

Dave Tweed♦Dave Tweed

126k10155269

$endgroup$

• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  Thank you Dave. That sounds like a good suggestion. I have never tried programming PIC's so it all a bit new to me. I will have to investigate this option.
  $endgroup$
  – FerryMan69
  9 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  


• 
  
  
  

  
  

  
  
  
  
  
  

  
  $begingroup$
  If you want to learn to program PICs, this is a great first project. If you don't it will seem like a lot of fuss.
  $endgroup$
  – Dannie
  2 hours ago
  

  
  
  
  

add a comment | 

$begingroup$

FWIW, here's the schematic:

^{simulate this circuit – Schematic created using CircuitLab}

You could desolder the HH5K1 and put a PIC10F200 in its place (after programming it, of course).

• Pin 2 would connect to BAT-


• Pin 6 would connect to BAT+


• Pin 4 would connect to R2 and the MOSFETs

You'd just need to add a wire between pins 5 (Vdd) and 6 to power the chip.

share|improve this answer

answered 10 hours ago

Dave Tweed♦Dave Tweed

126k10155269

$endgroup$

share|improve this answer

answered 10 hours ago

Dave Tweed♦Dave Tweed

126k10155269

answered 10 hours ago

Dave Tweed♦Dave Tweed

126k10155269

answered 10 hours ago

Dave Tweed♦Dave Tweed

126k10155269