Getting Stale Gas Out of a Gas Tank w/out Dropping the Tank Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara Planned maintenance scheduled April 17/18, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern) Should we be closing questions more regularly?The tray under my gas tank is dented. What should I be aware of before draining and removing my gas tank?How to remove rust from gas tank?How to remove all the fluid out of my motorcycle fuel tank?Honda EU3000is K1 Generator - Replace Gas TankLeftover gas in the gas pump due to hose designCan not fill gas into tank for 2004 Honda pilotWhat happens if I add 2 liter of stale gasoline to my car's gas tank?Mystery White / Gray Dust on Motorcycle Gas CapWhy gas build up in tank?Any techniques to remove rust from inside fuel tank without removal
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Getting Stale Gas Out of a Gas Tank w/out Dropping the Tank
Announcing the arrival of Valued Associate #679: Cesar Manara
Planned maintenance scheduled April 17/18, 2019 at 00:00UTC (8:00pm US/Eastern)
Should we be closing questions more regularly?The tray under my gas tank is dented. What should I be aware of before draining and removing my gas tank?How to remove rust from gas tank?How to remove all the fluid out of my motorcycle fuel tank?Honda EU3000is K1 Generator - Replace Gas TankLeftover gas in the gas pump due to hose designCan not fill gas into tank for 2004 Honda pilotWhat happens if I add 2 liter of stale gasoline to my car's gas tank?Mystery White / Gray Dust on Motorcycle Gas CapWhy gas build up in tank?Any techniques to remove rust from inside fuel tank without removal
I've got an old Chevy ('75) with a top-opening to the gas tank. The car has been sitting for 3 years without use. I want to clean the stale gas out of the tank. I have drained it as well as I can by disconnecting the fuel pump supply line. However, I'm sure there is a residual amount of gas in the tank. Under normal circumstances, I'd drop the gas tank, however, on this car, the former-owner tack-welded the exhaust pipes together which need to be disassembled to drop the tank. I don't want to have to cut out the exhaust pipes if I can avoid it.
My question is this, is there a safe way (solvent, etc) that could be used to get the stale gas out of the tank without dropping the tank?
fuel-tank old-cars
add a comment |
I've got an old Chevy ('75) with a top-opening to the gas tank. The car has been sitting for 3 years without use. I want to clean the stale gas out of the tank. I have drained it as well as I can by disconnecting the fuel pump supply line. However, I'm sure there is a residual amount of gas in the tank. Under normal circumstances, I'd drop the gas tank, however, on this car, the former-owner tack-welded the exhaust pipes together which need to be disassembled to drop the tank. I don't want to have to cut out the exhaust pipes if I can avoid it.
My question is this, is there a safe way (solvent, etc) that could be used to get the stale gas out of the tank without dropping the tank?
fuel-tank old-cars
add a comment |
I've got an old Chevy ('75) with a top-opening to the gas tank. The car has been sitting for 3 years without use. I want to clean the stale gas out of the tank. I have drained it as well as I can by disconnecting the fuel pump supply line. However, I'm sure there is a residual amount of gas in the tank. Under normal circumstances, I'd drop the gas tank, however, on this car, the former-owner tack-welded the exhaust pipes together which need to be disassembled to drop the tank. I don't want to have to cut out the exhaust pipes if I can avoid it.
My question is this, is there a safe way (solvent, etc) that could be used to get the stale gas out of the tank without dropping the tank?
fuel-tank old-cars
I've got an old Chevy ('75) with a top-opening to the gas tank. The car has been sitting for 3 years without use. I want to clean the stale gas out of the tank. I have drained it as well as I can by disconnecting the fuel pump supply line. However, I'm sure there is a residual amount of gas in the tank. Under normal circumstances, I'd drop the gas tank, however, on this car, the former-owner tack-welded the exhaust pipes together which need to be disassembled to drop the tank. I don't want to have to cut out the exhaust pipes if I can avoid it.
My question is this, is there a safe way (solvent, etc) that could be used to get the stale gas out of the tank without dropping the tank?
fuel-tank old-cars
fuel-tank old-cars
edited Mar 31 at 13:13
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
112k19177375
112k19177375
asked Mar 31 at 12:43
N8sBugN8sBug
19810
19810
add a comment |
add a comment |
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
If there is under a gallon of stale gas and you filled your tank up with fresh, I don't think there'd be an issue with the stale gas. It would dilute enough you shouldn't have to worry about it.
If you can't drop (or don't want to) your fuel tank, or cannot put a syphon hose down into it through the filler neck, there's just about no way to get the small amount of gas out which you're talking about, short of punching a hole in the bottom of the tank and then patching it after the fact. To be honest, I'd drop the tank before I'd punch a hole in it.
Not that I'm terribly worried about it with the stale gas, but I'd be afraid to end up with a Darwin Award after trying to punch a hole and patching it up.
– N8sBug
Mar 31 at 14:33
@N8sBug - Yah, Darwin can make a fool out of you if you don't pay attention! :o)
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 17:05
Siphon hose= Oklahoma credit card.
– Moab
Apr 6 at 0:57
add a comment |
Just dilute it
3 year old gas? Don't worry about it. Drain it as far as possible, then just dilute it by filling the tank with new gas. It'll be fine.
If you're really that, that worried about it, then pull the mixed gas back out into legal cans, and dilute it again with more gas. We're bordering on homeopathy at this point.
Do not mess with fuel lines on a modern car
I notice one advice was to activate a modern car's electric fuel pump. Couple problems with that idea. First, there are typically 2-4 gas lines between engine and tank, which one to unhook? Second, these are high pressure lines running 40 PSI, and use more challenging splice connections - they are not just the ole' rubber and hose clamp (like OP's '75 is). Third, running an in-tank fuel pump dry destroys the pump so you really need to be on-the-ball when the flow stops.
On a modern car, do it old-school, with a rubber hose into the tank. If that doesn't work, some car interiors provide an accessible hatch above the top of the tank so you can access the fuel pump. It may be found under the rear seat.
add a comment |
If this has an in-tank fuel pump (as most cars do these days, but I wouldn't know about a '75 model), you can use the following method. Basically, you're shorting the fuel pump signal lines to get it to run continuously, and routing the fuel line in the engine bay into an appropriate container.
Disclaimer: be very careful when working with fuel and electricity. Very Bad Things can happen.
Disconnect the battery
Disconnect the fuel line that goes into the engine bay and route it into a fuel-friendly container. If your fuel system has one of those Schrader valves for pressure testing, you can tap into the system there. This will require either removing the valve or valve core.
Remove the fuel pump relay, and short the two signal pins in the fuse box. (Google your relay to find out which pins you need.)
Turn the key to the "on" position.
Reconnect the negative battery cable and watch the fuel make its way into your container. Pay attention as you'll want to disconnect the negative cable again once the fuel stops flowing since you don't want to run the pump dry for too long.
Disconnect the negative cable again
Reinstall your fuel pump relay
Put the Shrader valve back in its original configuration, or reconnect your fuel delivery hose.
Reconnect the negative cable and tighten it down.
Voila.
2
'75 is most likely going to have a mechanical pump, but good advice if electrical fuel pump equipped.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 19:55
I have done tis on my car (1971 - but not a chevy) just byre-routing the fuel line to a container, switching the ignition on, but not starting the engine. Fuel pump ticks way, fuel is pumped into container. Is there a need to play with the fuel pump relay etc ?
– user2808054
Apr 10 at 15:37
add a comment |
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3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
3 Answers
3
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
active
oldest
votes
If there is under a gallon of stale gas and you filled your tank up with fresh, I don't think there'd be an issue with the stale gas. It would dilute enough you shouldn't have to worry about it.
If you can't drop (or don't want to) your fuel tank, or cannot put a syphon hose down into it through the filler neck, there's just about no way to get the small amount of gas out which you're talking about, short of punching a hole in the bottom of the tank and then patching it after the fact. To be honest, I'd drop the tank before I'd punch a hole in it.
Not that I'm terribly worried about it with the stale gas, but I'd be afraid to end up with a Darwin Award after trying to punch a hole and patching it up.
– N8sBug
Mar 31 at 14:33
@N8sBug - Yah, Darwin can make a fool out of you if you don't pay attention! :o)
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 17:05
Siphon hose= Oklahoma credit card.
– Moab
Apr 6 at 0:57
add a comment |
If there is under a gallon of stale gas and you filled your tank up with fresh, I don't think there'd be an issue with the stale gas. It would dilute enough you shouldn't have to worry about it.
If you can't drop (or don't want to) your fuel tank, or cannot put a syphon hose down into it through the filler neck, there's just about no way to get the small amount of gas out which you're talking about, short of punching a hole in the bottom of the tank and then patching it after the fact. To be honest, I'd drop the tank before I'd punch a hole in it.
Not that I'm terribly worried about it with the stale gas, but I'd be afraid to end up with a Darwin Award after trying to punch a hole and patching it up.
– N8sBug
Mar 31 at 14:33
@N8sBug - Yah, Darwin can make a fool out of you if you don't pay attention! :o)
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 17:05
Siphon hose= Oklahoma credit card.
– Moab
Apr 6 at 0:57
add a comment |
If there is under a gallon of stale gas and you filled your tank up with fresh, I don't think there'd be an issue with the stale gas. It would dilute enough you shouldn't have to worry about it.
If you can't drop (or don't want to) your fuel tank, or cannot put a syphon hose down into it through the filler neck, there's just about no way to get the small amount of gas out which you're talking about, short of punching a hole in the bottom of the tank and then patching it after the fact. To be honest, I'd drop the tank before I'd punch a hole in it.
If there is under a gallon of stale gas and you filled your tank up with fresh, I don't think there'd be an issue with the stale gas. It would dilute enough you shouldn't have to worry about it.
If you can't drop (or don't want to) your fuel tank, or cannot put a syphon hose down into it through the filler neck, there's just about no way to get the small amount of gas out which you're talking about, short of punching a hole in the bottom of the tank and then patching it after the fact. To be honest, I'd drop the tank before I'd punch a hole in it.
edited Mar 31 at 15:31
answered Mar 31 at 13:12
Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2
112k19177375
112k19177375
Not that I'm terribly worried about it with the stale gas, but I'd be afraid to end up with a Darwin Award after trying to punch a hole and patching it up.
– N8sBug
Mar 31 at 14:33
@N8sBug - Yah, Darwin can make a fool out of you if you don't pay attention! :o)
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 17:05
Siphon hose= Oklahoma credit card.
– Moab
Apr 6 at 0:57
add a comment |
Not that I'm terribly worried about it with the stale gas, but I'd be afraid to end up with a Darwin Award after trying to punch a hole and patching it up.
– N8sBug
Mar 31 at 14:33
@N8sBug - Yah, Darwin can make a fool out of you if you don't pay attention! :o)
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 17:05
Siphon hose= Oklahoma credit card.
– Moab
Apr 6 at 0:57
Not that I'm terribly worried about it with the stale gas, but I'd be afraid to end up with a Darwin Award after trying to punch a hole and patching it up.
– N8sBug
Mar 31 at 14:33
Not that I'm terribly worried about it with the stale gas, but I'd be afraid to end up with a Darwin Award after trying to punch a hole and patching it up.
– N8sBug
Mar 31 at 14:33
@N8sBug - Yah, Darwin can make a fool out of you if you don't pay attention! :o)
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 17:05
@N8sBug - Yah, Darwin can make a fool out of you if you don't pay attention! :o)
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 17:05
Siphon hose= Oklahoma credit card.
– Moab
Apr 6 at 0:57
Siphon hose= Oklahoma credit card.
– Moab
Apr 6 at 0:57
add a comment |
Just dilute it
3 year old gas? Don't worry about it. Drain it as far as possible, then just dilute it by filling the tank with new gas. It'll be fine.
If you're really that, that worried about it, then pull the mixed gas back out into legal cans, and dilute it again with more gas. We're bordering on homeopathy at this point.
Do not mess with fuel lines on a modern car
I notice one advice was to activate a modern car's electric fuel pump. Couple problems with that idea. First, there are typically 2-4 gas lines between engine and tank, which one to unhook? Second, these are high pressure lines running 40 PSI, and use more challenging splice connections - they are not just the ole' rubber and hose clamp (like OP's '75 is). Third, running an in-tank fuel pump dry destroys the pump so you really need to be on-the-ball when the flow stops.
On a modern car, do it old-school, with a rubber hose into the tank. If that doesn't work, some car interiors provide an accessible hatch above the top of the tank so you can access the fuel pump. It may be found under the rear seat.
add a comment |
Just dilute it
3 year old gas? Don't worry about it. Drain it as far as possible, then just dilute it by filling the tank with new gas. It'll be fine.
If you're really that, that worried about it, then pull the mixed gas back out into legal cans, and dilute it again with more gas. We're bordering on homeopathy at this point.
Do not mess with fuel lines on a modern car
I notice one advice was to activate a modern car's electric fuel pump. Couple problems with that idea. First, there are typically 2-4 gas lines between engine and tank, which one to unhook? Second, these are high pressure lines running 40 PSI, and use more challenging splice connections - they are not just the ole' rubber and hose clamp (like OP's '75 is). Third, running an in-tank fuel pump dry destroys the pump so you really need to be on-the-ball when the flow stops.
On a modern car, do it old-school, with a rubber hose into the tank. If that doesn't work, some car interiors provide an accessible hatch above the top of the tank so you can access the fuel pump. It may be found under the rear seat.
add a comment |
Just dilute it
3 year old gas? Don't worry about it. Drain it as far as possible, then just dilute it by filling the tank with new gas. It'll be fine.
If you're really that, that worried about it, then pull the mixed gas back out into legal cans, and dilute it again with more gas. We're bordering on homeopathy at this point.
Do not mess with fuel lines on a modern car
I notice one advice was to activate a modern car's electric fuel pump. Couple problems with that idea. First, there are typically 2-4 gas lines between engine and tank, which one to unhook? Second, these are high pressure lines running 40 PSI, and use more challenging splice connections - they are not just the ole' rubber and hose clamp (like OP's '75 is). Third, running an in-tank fuel pump dry destroys the pump so you really need to be on-the-ball when the flow stops.
On a modern car, do it old-school, with a rubber hose into the tank. If that doesn't work, some car interiors provide an accessible hatch above the top of the tank so you can access the fuel pump. It may be found under the rear seat.
Just dilute it
3 year old gas? Don't worry about it. Drain it as far as possible, then just dilute it by filling the tank with new gas. It'll be fine.
If you're really that, that worried about it, then pull the mixed gas back out into legal cans, and dilute it again with more gas. We're bordering on homeopathy at this point.
Do not mess with fuel lines on a modern car
I notice one advice was to activate a modern car's electric fuel pump. Couple problems with that idea. First, there are typically 2-4 gas lines between engine and tank, which one to unhook? Second, these are high pressure lines running 40 PSI, and use more challenging splice connections - they are not just the ole' rubber and hose clamp (like OP's '75 is). Third, running an in-tank fuel pump dry destroys the pump so you really need to be on-the-ball when the flow stops.
On a modern car, do it old-school, with a rubber hose into the tank. If that doesn't work, some car interiors provide an accessible hatch above the top of the tank so you can access the fuel pump. It may be found under the rear seat.
answered Mar 31 at 23:00
HarperHarper
1,607313
1,607313
add a comment |
add a comment |
If this has an in-tank fuel pump (as most cars do these days, but I wouldn't know about a '75 model), you can use the following method. Basically, you're shorting the fuel pump signal lines to get it to run continuously, and routing the fuel line in the engine bay into an appropriate container.
Disclaimer: be very careful when working with fuel and electricity. Very Bad Things can happen.
Disconnect the battery
Disconnect the fuel line that goes into the engine bay and route it into a fuel-friendly container. If your fuel system has one of those Schrader valves for pressure testing, you can tap into the system there. This will require either removing the valve or valve core.
Remove the fuel pump relay, and short the two signal pins in the fuse box. (Google your relay to find out which pins you need.)
Turn the key to the "on" position.
Reconnect the negative battery cable and watch the fuel make its way into your container. Pay attention as you'll want to disconnect the negative cable again once the fuel stops flowing since you don't want to run the pump dry for too long.
Disconnect the negative cable again
Reinstall your fuel pump relay
Put the Shrader valve back in its original configuration, or reconnect your fuel delivery hose.
Reconnect the negative cable and tighten it down.
Voila.
2
'75 is most likely going to have a mechanical pump, but good advice if electrical fuel pump equipped.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 19:55
I have done tis on my car (1971 - but not a chevy) just byre-routing the fuel line to a container, switching the ignition on, but not starting the engine. Fuel pump ticks way, fuel is pumped into container. Is there a need to play with the fuel pump relay etc ?
– user2808054
Apr 10 at 15:37
add a comment |
If this has an in-tank fuel pump (as most cars do these days, but I wouldn't know about a '75 model), you can use the following method. Basically, you're shorting the fuel pump signal lines to get it to run continuously, and routing the fuel line in the engine bay into an appropriate container.
Disclaimer: be very careful when working with fuel and electricity. Very Bad Things can happen.
Disconnect the battery
Disconnect the fuel line that goes into the engine bay and route it into a fuel-friendly container. If your fuel system has one of those Schrader valves for pressure testing, you can tap into the system there. This will require either removing the valve or valve core.
Remove the fuel pump relay, and short the two signal pins in the fuse box. (Google your relay to find out which pins you need.)
Turn the key to the "on" position.
Reconnect the negative battery cable and watch the fuel make its way into your container. Pay attention as you'll want to disconnect the negative cable again once the fuel stops flowing since you don't want to run the pump dry for too long.
Disconnect the negative cable again
Reinstall your fuel pump relay
Put the Shrader valve back in its original configuration, or reconnect your fuel delivery hose.
Reconnect the negative cable and tighten it down.
Voila.
2
'75 is most likely going to have a mechanical pump, but good advice if electrical fuel pump equipped.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 19:55
I have done tis on my car (1971 - but not a chevy) just byre-routing the fuel line to a container, switching the ignition on, but not starting the engine. Fuel pump ticks way, fuel is pumped into container. Is there a need to play with the fuel pump relay etc ?
– user2808054
Apr 10 at 15:37
add a comment |
If this has an in-tank fuel pump (as most cars do these days, but I wouldn't know about a '75 model), you can use the following method. Basically, you're shorting the fuel pump signal lines to get it to run continuously, and routing the fuel line in the engine bay into an appropriate container.
Disclaimer: be very careful when working with fuel and electricity. Very Bad Things can happen.
Disconnect the battery
Disconnect the fuel line that goes into the engine bay and route it into a fuel-friendly container. If your fuel system has one of those Schrader valves for pressure testing, you can tap into the system there. This will require either removing the valve or valve core.
Remove the fuel pump relay, and short the two signal pins in the fuse box. (Google your relay to find out which pins you need.)
Turn the key to the "on" position.
Reconnect the negative battery cable and watch the fuel make its way into your container. Pay attention as you'll want to disconnect the negative cable again once the fuel stops flowing since you don't want to run the pump dry for too long.
Disconnect the negative cable again
Reinstall your fuel pump relay
Put the Shrader valve back in its original configuration, or reconnect your fuel delivery hose.
Reconnect the negative cable and tighten it down.
Voila.
If this has an in-tank fuel pump (as most cars do these days, but I wouldn't know about a '75 model), you can use the following method. Basically, you're shorting the fuel pump signal lines to get it to run continuously, and routing the fuel line in the engine bay into an appropriate container.
Disclaimer: be very careful when working with fuel and electricity. Very Bad Things can happen.
Disconnect the battery
Disconnect the fuel line that goes into the engine bay and route it into a fuel-friendly container. If your fuel system has one of those Schrader valves for pressure testing, you can tap into the system there. This will require either removing the valve or valve core.
Remove the fuel pump relay, and short the two signal pins in the fuse box. (Google your relay to find out which pins you need.)
Turn the key to the "on" position.
Reconnect the negative battery cable and watch the fuel make its way into your container. Pay attention as you'll want to disconnect the negative cable again once the fuel stops flowing since you don't want to run the pump dry for too long.
Disconnect the negative cable again
Reinstall your fuel pump relay
Put the Shrader valve back in its original configuration, or reconnect your fuel delivery hose.
Reconnect the negative cable and tighten it down.
Voila.
edited Mar 31 at 19:31
answered Mar 31 at 19:16
3Dave3Dave
2,2641228
2,2641228
2
'75 is most likely going to have a mechanical pump, but good advice if electrical fuel pump equipped.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 19:55
I have done tis on my car (1971 - but not a chevy) just byre-routing the fuel line to a container, switching the ignition on, but not starting the engine. Fuel pump ticks way, fuel is pumped into container. Is there a need to play with the fuel pump relay etc ?
– user2808054
Apr 10 at 15:37
add a comment |
2
'75 is most likely going to have a mechanical pump, but good advice if electrical fuel pump equipped.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 19:55
I have done tis on my car (1971 - but not a chevy) just byre-routing the fuel line to a container, switching the ignition on, but not starting the engine. Fuel pump ticks way, fuel is pumped into container. Is there a need to play with the fuel pump relay etc ?
– user2808054
Apr 10 at 15:37
2
2
'75 is most likely going to have a mechanical pump, but good advice if electrical fuel pump equipped.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 19:55
'75 is most likely going to have a mechanical pump, but good advice if electrical fuel pump equipped.
– Pᴀᴜʟsᴛᴇʀ2♦
Mar 31 at 19:55
I have done tis on my car (1971 - but not a chevy) just byre-routing the fuel line to a container, switching the ignition on, but not starting the engine. Fuel pump ticks way, fuel is pumped into container. Is there a need to play with the fuel pump relay etc ?
– user2808054
Apr 10 at 15:37
I have done tis on my car (1971 - but not a chevy) just byre-routing the fuel line to a container, switching the ignition on, but not starting the engine. Fuel pump ticks way, fuel is pumped into container. Is there a need to play with the fuel pump relay etc ?
– user2808054
Apr 10 at 15:37
add a comment |
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